Biologique Recherche has a cult following who swear by their P50 Toner. This French secret is a cross between a chemical exfoliant and a toner. Countless people have raved about it's effectiveness and speed. Celebrities even use this, from Madonna, Sharon Stone, and Brad Pitt, which is how I talked my husband into using this! My good friend Jenn over at The Fake-Up raved about this and swore by it, saying if she were on a deserted island and was only allowed 3 skincare items besides sunscreen, the P50 would be one of them.
What Is It?
The Lotion P50 V "1970", the Lotion P50 W "1970", the Lotion P50, and the Lotion P50 Original "1970" are acidic toners, which sounds much harsher than they are. They're made to strengthen your skin, chemically exfoliate your skin, regulate sebum production, hydrate your skin, maintain your pH levels, and treat and prevent ingrown hairs. You can find toners and chemical exfoliants who do all of the above, but you'll be using multiple products. The Lotion P50 Original "1970" is the original one made with phenol, which is a mild anesthetic. This particular lotion has been banned in Europe due to health concerns but is still available for purchase in the U.S. and a few other select countries. You will get a slight burning and tingling sensation when using the other lotions, but this will subside when your pH balance is restored.
Lotion P50: This is good for women who are pregnant or breast feeding, will work on all skin types (dry, oily, combo, or normal).
Lotion P50 Original "1970": This lotion contains phenol, a mild anesthetic, so you will get a burning and tingling sensation which is part of the appeal for some.
Lotion P50 V: The V is for Vitamin Enriched, this lotion is good for very sensitive skin.
Lotion P50 W: This is the gentlest formula in the group, so this is very good for dry, mature, or sensitive skin, or as an introduction into the line.
Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
When to Use It
You can use the P50 after you cleanse and before you moisturize. It is designed to help balance the skin's pH, itself having a pH of 3.0. Unlike some other chemical exfoliants, you do not need to wait 20 minutes before you move on to the next step in your skincare which is a great time saver!
How to Use It
Some toners you can apply directly as a mist or with your hands to gently pat onto your skin- I'm looking at your Fresh Rose Floral Toner or Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist. Some exfoliants come pre-soaked on a pad, ready to use, like FAB Facial Radiance Pads or Stridex Red Box. All of those are great, but the P50 comes in a liquid form and you will need to use a disposable cotton pad to apply this.
You will want to put a few drops on the pad, then gently pat up from your decollate towards your neck and face, DO NOT RUB. On the directions it says to avoid the eye area, but I live dangerously and gently pat around my eyes as well.
You have to create an account to see the prices on Shop Rescue Spa's website, or you could try creating an account at Vicki Morav! But luckily for you, you can see the prices right now for Shop Rescue Spa! Keep in mind you will have to pay about $11 for ground shipping; I couldn't find any shipping rates for Vicki Morav.
1.7 oz $27.00, price per ounce: $15.88
5.1 oz $61.00, price per ounce: $11.96
8.5 oz $94.00, price per ounce: $11.19
- This strong AHA will help regenerate new cell growth and help with redness, aka PIH (post inflammatory hyper pigmentation).
- It helps with blemishes, oily skin becomes less so, dry skin becomes less so, and helps what's next in your skincare routine penetrate the skin better.
- I noticed my complexion is brighter, anecdotal but true for me.
- P50 Original 1970 burns and numbs your face (could be good, could be bad, see below).
- There is no alcohol in it; a lot of people look for skincare items without alcohol due to sensitivity.
- You do not need to wait 20 minutes to let it set like other chemical exfoliants.
- It comes in three sizes so you can start off with the smallest, travel friendly size to try it out.
- The scent: smells like vinegar because there's vinegar in it. Apple Cider Vinegar. So if you're allergic, stay away!
- The price is a deterrent but like a lot of skincare items, better products are going to cost more because they use quality ingredients. And considering how little you'll use, it'll take you a while to use up a bottle.
- I still have PIH but that will take time to go away.
- From what I could find, a few people have experienced a slight purging but no one really seemed to have a bad experience with it.
- P50 Original 1970 burns and numbs your face (see above).
- Do not use a retinol after using this toner. So I cannot use my beloved Luna Oil, but Jenn uses it and she hasn't had a bad reaction to it at all.
Results: Hype or Holy Grail?
Wowza! Definitely Holy Grail 100%! I didn't have any ingrown hairs to test on, but my oil production has been spot on- not excessive at all, even though I am typically dry/combo normal during the summer The toner didn't dry me out even more in my dry areas. I don't have acne as a problem except during my shark week, so it's been great helping me combat them. I highly suggest you purchase a travel sized P50 to give it a try! It's worth every penny! P50 is definitely a holy grail for me! I am so glad I splurged and got this and hope you get it too!